Reference
Knitting abbreviations,
in plain English.
133 abbreviations — from the everyday to the obscure. Search by abbreviation or description.
133 entries
2
2aat2 at a time. A technique to knit two socks (or sleeves) at the same time, avoiding second-sock syndrome.
A
altalternate. Every other row, round, or stitch — e.g. working an instruction on "alt rows" means rows 1, 3, 5 and so on.
approxapproximately. A rough guide rather than an exact figure — often used for measurements like sleeve or body length.
B
begbeginning. Used at the start of a row or round instruction.
bk3togbrioche knit 3 together. A right-leaning decrease used in brioche stitch.
BObind off. Cast off your stitches to finish the edge. Also written as cast-off, especially in UK patterns.
BORbeginning of round. Marks the start point when knitting in the round.
Brkbrioche knit. A double stitch (slipped stitch + yarnover) decreased with k2tog in brioche knitting.
brkyobrkbrioche knit yarn over brioche knit. A centred increase for brioche stitch.
BrPbrioche purl. A double stitch (slipped stitch + yarnover) decreased with p2tog in brioche knitting.
bsk2pbrioche slip knit 2 pass. A right-leaning brioche decrease.
BYObackward yarn over. A yarn over worked in the opposite direction — creates a twisted stitch. Also called reverse yarn over.
C
C4Bcable four back. Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at back, knit 2, then knit the 2 from the cable needle. Creates a right-leaning cable twist.
C4Fcable four front. Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at front, knit 2, then knit the 2 from the cable needle. Creates a left-leaning cable twist.
CCcontrasting colour. The second (or additional) colour in a colourwork pattern.
CDDcentred double decrease. Slip 2 together knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over. Leans neither left nor right. Also called k3tog centred.
CDDPcentred double decrease purl. The purl-side version of the centred double decrease. A variation of p3tog.
CDIcentral double increase. A centred increase that adds two stitches at once, leaning neither left nor right.
CNcable needle. A short auxiliary needle used to hold stitches aside when working cable crosses.
COcast on. Creating the initial row of stitches on your needle to start a project.
contcontinue. Keep working in the pattern as set, without changing what you're doing.
CSDcentred single decrease. A decrease that removes one stitch without leaning left or right.
CSDBcentred single decrease back. A centred single decrease worked through the back loop.
D
DDdouble decrease. Any decrease that removes two stitches at once (e.g. k3tog, CDD).
decdecrease. Reducing the number of stitches on your needle.
DPNsdouble-pointed needles. Short needles with points at both ends, used for knitting small circumferences in the round (e.g. socks, sleeves).
E
EONend of needle. Marks the end of a needle when using DPNs.
EORend of row. Marks the end of a row in a pattern instruction.
F
FOfinished object. A completed knitting project. Used in knitting communities online.
follfollowing. Refers to the row, round, or stitch that comes next.
G
ggrams. The unit your yarn weight is given in — used to work out how many balls you need.
G stgarter stitch. Knit every row on flat knitting (or alternate knit/purl rounds in the round). Creates a ridged, reversible fabric.
H
HOhalf-finished object. A project that's been abandoned partway through.
HOTNhot off the needles. A project just completed — often not yet blocked or with ends still to weave in.
I
I-cordidiot's delight cord. A small tube of knitted cord worked on DPNs or two needles. The name was shortened from "Idiot Cord" by Elizabeth Zimmermann, who found the original rude. Used for ties, button loops, and edgings.
incincrease. Adding stitches to your needle.
K
Kknit. The basic knitting stitch. Insert needle from front to back, wrap yarn, pull through.
k1bknit 1 below. Knit into the stitch one row below the current stitch. Used in fisherman's rib and bubble stitch.
k2togknit 2 together. Insert needle through 2 stitches at once and knit them together. Creates a right-leaning decrease.
k2tog tblknit 2 together through the back loop. Insert needle through the back loops of 2 stitches and knit together. Creates a left-leaning decrease.
k3togknit 3 together. Insert needle through 3 stitches and knit together. A double decrease.
KBFknit back and front. Knit into the back loop then the front loop of the same stitch. A bar increase, slightly less visible than KFB.
KFBknit front and back. Knit into the front and then the back of the same stitch without slipping it off. Creates a left-leaning increase with a small horizontal bar.
KFSBknit front slip back. An optimised version of KFB — knit the front, then slip the back. Less visible bar.
KLLknit left loop. Pick up the left leg of the stitch below and knit it. A right-leaning increase. Also called LLI (left-lifted increase).
KOknit over / knit off. Either knit across to a given point, or another term for binding/casting off.
KRLknit right loop. Pick up the right leg of the stitch below and knit it. A left-leaning increase. Also called RLI (right-lifted increase).
ktblknit through back loop. Insert needle through the back loop of the stitch instead of the front. Creates a twisted knit stitch.
kwiseknitwise. Insert your needle into a stitch as if you were about to knit it, without actually working it. Often used when slipping stitches.
KYOKknit yarn over knit. Knit, yarn over, knit all into the same stitch. A double increase used in stacked increases.
L
LHleft hand. Refers to the left-hand needle in a pattern instruction.
LLPIleft lifted purl increase. Pick up the left leg of the stitch below on the purl side and purl it. Also called PLL.
LPTleft purl travel. A left-leaning cable cross where one of the two stitches is a purl.
LTCOlong tail cast-on. One of the most common cast-on methods. Uses a loop of yarn over your thumb and creates a neat, stretchy edge.
M
mmetres. The unit of length your yarn's yardage is given in.
M1make one. Pick up the horizontal bar between two stitches and knit it. A simple increase.
M1BLmake one back loop. Pick up the bar between stitches and knit through the back loop. A left-leaning increase, also usable to add stitches at row end.
M1Lmake one left. Pick up the bar between stitches from front to back and knit through the back loop. A left-leaning increase.
M1PLmake one purl left. The purl-side version of M1L. A left-leaning increase worked on the wrong side.
M1PRmake one purl right. The purl-side version of M1R. A right-leaning increase worked on the wrong side.
M1Rmake one right. Pick up the bar between stitches from back to front and knit through the front loop. A right-leaning increase.
MBmake bobble. Work several stitches into one stitch, then decrease back down to create a raised bobble on the fabric surface.
MCmain colour. The primary colour in a colourwork pattern.
Md / mdsmake double stitch. A technique used in short-row knitting — slip a stitch and pull the yarn to create a double loop that closes the gap.
mmmillimetres. Used to describe needle size or diameter — e.g. "4mm needles".
moss stmoss stitch. A textured stitch made by alternating knit and purl stitches and offsetting them every row, creating a bumpy, woven look. Very similar to seed stitch.
P
Ppurl. The second basic knitting stitch. Insert needle from right to left, wrap yarn, pull through. Creates a bump on the facing side.
P1Bpurl 1 below. Purl into the stitch one row below the current stitch.
p2ssopass 2 slipped stitches over. Lift two slipped stitches over a stitch you've just worked and off the needle. Creates a neat, centred double decrease.
P2togpurl 2 together. Insert needle through 2 stitches purlwise and purl together. A left-leaning decrease on the purl side.
P2tog tblpurl 2 together through back loop. A right-leaning decrease on the purl side.
P3togpurl 3 together. Purl three stitches together. A double decrease on the purl side.
P3tog tblpurl 3 together through back loop. A right-leaning double decrease on the purl side.
pattpattern. The stitch pattern or sequence of instructions you're currently following.
PBFpurl back and front. Purl into the back and then the front of the same stitch. A bar increase on the wrong side.
PFBpurl front back. Purl into the front and back of the same stitch. A purl-side bar increase.
PFBFpurl front back front. Purl into the front, back, then front again of the same stitch without slipping it off. A double increase on the purl side, adding two stitches at once.
PLLpurl left loop. Pick up the left leg of the stitch below on the purl side. A left-leaning purl increase. Also called LLPI.
PMplace marker. Slide a stitch marker onto the needle to mark a position you'll need to refer back to.
PNSOpass next stitch over. Lift the next stitch on the needle over the stitch just worked.
PRLpurl right loop. Pick up the right leg of the stitch below on the purl side. A right-leaning purl increase.
PSSOpass slipped stitch over. After slipping a stitch, lift it over the stitch just knitted and off the needle. Used in decreases like sl1, k1, psso.
ptblpurl through back loop. Insert the needle through the back loop of the stitch and purl. Creates a twisted purl stitch.
Pupick up. Pick up stitches along an edge (e.g. a neckline or armhole) to continue knitting in a new direction.
pwisepurlwise. Insert your needle into a stitch as if you were about to purl it, without actually working it.
R
Rrow / round. One complete pass across all stitches. R can mean row (flat knitting) or round (circular knitting).
remremaining. The stitches left on your needle after you've worked the instructions just given.
reprepeat. Work the instructions again as many times as stated.
rev st streverse stocking stitch. The "wrong" side of stocking stitch used as the right side — purl bumps face outward instead of smooth knit stitches. Also called reverse stockinette.
RHright hand. Refers to the right-hand needle in a pattern instruction.
Ribribbing. Alternating columns of knit and purl stitches. Creates a stretchy, textured fabric. Often written as 1×1 rib (k1, p1) or 2×2 rib (k2, p2).
rnd / rndsround / rounds. Used in circular knitting — one full lap of your needles, equivalent to a row in flat knitting.
RPTright purl travel. A right-leaning cable cross where one of the two stitches is a purl.
RSright side. The public-facing side of your work — the side that will be visible when worn.
S
SABLEstash acquired beyond life expectancy. Having more yarn than you could possibly knit in one lifetime. A badge of honour in knitting communities.
SB2slip back 2. Slip two increased stitches back to the left needle purlwise, used in stacked increases.
seed stseed stitch. Alternating knit and purl stitches, offset on every row to create a textured, seed-like surface. Closely related to moss stitch — the names are sometimes used interchangeably depending on region.
sel / sel sselvage / selvedge stitch. A special edge stitch worked at the beginning or end of each row to create a neat, finished edge without seaming.
skskip. Pass over the indicated stitch without working it.
SKLslip knit lift. Slip a stitch, knit the next, then lift the slipped stitch over. A right-leaning bar increase mirroring KFB.
SKPslip 1 knit 1 pass over. Slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. A left-leaning decrease.
SKPOslip 1 knit 1 pass over. Slip a stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch, then lift the slipped stitch over it and off the needle. Creates a left-leaning decrease. Also written as skp or SKP.
sl / sl1slip 1. Slide a stitch from the left needle to the right without knitting it. Usually done purlwise unless stated otherwise.
SL stslipped stitch. A stitch that was slipped rather than knitted in a previous row.
Sl1yoslip 1 yarn over. Slip one stitch and place a yarn over. One of the three core stitches in brioche knitting.
slkslip knot. The initial loop used to start most cast-on methods.
smslip marker. Slide the stitch marker from the left needle to the right as you pass it.
SSKslip slip knit. Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, then knit them together through the back loops. A left-leaning decrease.
SSPslip slip purl. Slip 2 stitches knitwise, return to left needle, purl together through back loops. A right-leaning decrease for the purl side.
SSSsecond sock syndrome. The lack of motivation to knit the second sock (or sleeve) after finishing the first.
st / stsstitch / stitches. The basic unit of knitting. A loop of yarn on the needle.
st ststocking stitch. Knit on right side rows, purl on wrong side rows (flat). Creates a smooth, V-patterned fabric. Also called stockinette.
T
tblthrough back loop. Working into the back loop of a stitch instead of the front. Creates a twisted stitch.
tflthrough front loop. Working into the front loop of a stitch — the default unless otherwise stated.
TL / TRtravel left / travel right. Left or right cable cross movements in Bavarian twisted stitch knitting. Also written T2L/T2R, LT/RT.
togtogether. Work two or more stitches as if they were one — usually to decrease your stitch count, e.g. k2tog.
U
UFOunfinished object. A project that's been set aside, often for a long time.
W
W&Twrap and turn. A short-row technique. Wrap the working yarn around the next stitch, turn the work, and continue in the other direction. Closes the gap left by turning mid-row.
WIPwork in progress. A project you are actively knitting.
WONwool over needle. Bring the yarn over the needle to create a new stitch or a decorative hole. Same as yarn over (YO).
WRNwool round needle. Wrap the yarn all the way around the needle. Similar to a yarn over but creates a full wrap.
WSwrong side. The back/inside of your knitting — the side that won't be seen when worn.
Wyibwith yarn in back. Hold the working yarn at the back of the work (the far side from you) before working the next stitch.
Wyifwith yarn in front. Hold the working yarn at the front of the work (the near side) before working the next stitch.
Y
ybyarn back. Move your working yarn to the back of your work, between the needle tips, without wrapping it. Also written as ybk.
ybkyarn back. Bring the working yarn to the back of the work between the needle tips without wrapping it.
yfyarn forward. Bring your working yarn to the front of your work, between the needle tips, ready to purl or make a yarn over. Also written as yfwd.
yfwdyarn forward. Bring the working yarn to the front between the needle tips. Sometimes creates a yarn over as part of a stitch.
YOyarn over. Wrap the working yarn over the needle before working the next stitch. Creates an extra stitch and a small eyelet hole. Used in lace and increases.
yonyarn over needle. Wrap the yarn over the needle to create a new stitch and a small eyelet hole — essentially the same as a yarn over (YO).
YRNyarn round needle. Wrap the yarn fully around the needle to create a new stitch. Used in some traditional patterns as a variant of a yarn over. Similar to WRN (wool round needle).
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